effe rond gezocht en op migweb er bestaat er zelf een topic over over td van isuzu tunen zo zijn er mannen die 120pk bollen zonder enige aankopen te doen uitgezonder bleedvalva en intercooler
hier een kleine handling (jammer genoeg komen die fotos niet mee )
Taking the inlet manifold off is the best way to get to it,
the guide on cs says to cut the polo ring, but there is no need for that. (i.e. reversible mod)
taking it off however isn’t as easy as it seems, it’s held on by two 12mm nuts and five 8mm bolts,
the bolts are the problem:
as you can see they are not regular bolts, i bought a socket for them, was
a stahlwille item part no. 50 size 8 (12 edges…dunno the proper name)
Here you can see that there isn’t much working space between manifold and pump.
(this used to be the big flat manifold which also houses the filter)
the safety valve can also be seen sticking out of the manifold, not all isuzu’s have this btw.
From this point, make sure you’re working as clean as possible,
you don’t want any dirt getting in the pump, onto the plunger etc.
Once the manifold is off you can easily see the four 10mm bolts, undo the four bolts,
slightly bend the fuel return pipe and gently take off the cover
Then you’ll see the rubber diaphram: DO NOT rip it out, firstly mark the nut on top of the diaphram
(turning it = adjusting it, so you’ll need to know it’s original position),
then take it out (you may need to turn it a little to get it out)
The pump without plunger & diaphram:
The plunger with diaphram:
the white polo, i knew it was in there somewhere !
(note: the cone at the end of the plunger is eccentric, therefore if u turn it, you’re adjusting it…
look at it closely and you can see the markings on the cone made by the follower in the pump )
now, take it off:
Hammering the dimple out of the cover will make the plunger come up higher
and only affects the smoking when it’s idling / not boosting (not really necessary i’d say)
Now, put the plunger back in it’s original position (again: you may need to turn it to put it in),
make sure the edges of the rubber diaphram are in the groove,
then put the cover back on, push the fuel pipe back and tighten the four bolts.
The mysterious antitamper cover….can easily be removed with a big flat screwdriver:
just put it between the pump and the base of the cover and turn it and it should come off
If not, use all means necessary to get it off ! lmao
Underneath it is a 13mm lock nut and the max fuel screw, mark it’s original position,
then undo the nut and turn the screw, how much is up to you: 1/2 a turn is a lot and
you might want to adjust it to your own need.
If u start the car it will idle a lot higher (remember turning the max fuel screw)
therefore you need to adjust both the cold and hot idle screws: (blue for cold, red for hot):
these also have a lock nut on them (8 or 10 mm spanner will help you out)
Turning up the boost, using a bleedvalve or MBC.
Extra parts needed: 4mm boost hose (or fuel hose, which is also very strong),
clips or hose clamps AND a boost gauge with parts to install it (t-piece and pipe)
Look at the turbo and source the pipe that goes to the actuator (sits on the back of the turbo),
use some pliers to undo the clips and take off the hose, depending on the car
and turbo you could either cut this hose in half and put the bleedvalve/mbc inbetween
or use some extra boosthose to fit it (that’s what i did):
don’t know which way to put it? it’s from turbo->bleedvalve/mbc->actuator
How much boost ? Can’t tell you; in original form the nova’s/corsa’s run 0.68 bar and the astra/cav runs 0.8 bar…
i.e. you’re on your own here (and i take no responsibility if something goes BANG!) lmao
If u have a safety valve, then +/- 1.1 bar is as high as you can go, want to go up, mod it !
Put the valve in a vice (upsidedown), then drill into the center until the center comes off:
(center is on the right), then you can take the valve apart:
I welded a big nut (14 or 16mm…dunno exactly) in the valve and removed the ring on top:
Removing ring on top:
Cheers, J
