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Nog maar een keer dan…..
This is a very simple engineering solution to several vxr turbo problems.
loads of people have problems with oil leaks,oil smells,smoke on idle.to which the standard response is “take it back the dealers” then there are people who have had 4 or 5 turbos under warranty and still get the same issues.then you get the “these turbos are crap” or “they are made of chocolate” statements.
Well,you’re wrong.its not the turbo’s,its the car thats the problem and heres why.
The Z20LETS and Z20LEHS have oil pressure of near 90psi. Yes i have measured this pressure at the turbo.
The problem is,turbos are only supposed to run with between 2-4 bar (30-60)psi oil pressure. Ball bearing turbos are supposed to have less than 2 bar (30psi).which means you are feeding the turbo’s with way more oil pressure than they need and the seals are struggling to cope with it.
Thats why they seem to leak easily. not so much of a problem with the stock exhaust system,as the back pressure in it helps the oil seals. But when you fit a large bore exhaust and reduce the back pressure,it makes it even easier for the oil to get out of the exhaust side seal with its lower pressure.bingo.blue smoke on idle.now for the interesting bit.
When you take your car to the dealers for turbo related issues. TIS has a standard procedure. check for leaks.
If its the drain, fit the thicker z19dt drain gasket and clamp on the drain tube. If the problem still exists, swap the turbo.NOWHERE does it say, check for excessive oil pressure. so,if you have had 3 or 4 turbos under warranty with the same fault, its not the turbo thats the problem.
Also,if you have a rebuild by the likes of turbo dynamics,universal turbo’s etc.they statically test the oil seals for leaks at guess what pressure.60psi (4 bar) MAX.so,its fine on the bench,then it can leak on the car with the extra pressure the car generates.this is where you then get into the back and forth of “its not the turbo mate,its your car or your exhaust doesnt have enough back pressure”
WRONG!!!!!
turbos dont like ANY back pressure,quoting a turbo guru “the best exhaust for a turbo is no exhaust”.ever seen a turbo hayabusa or drag bike with more than 6 inches of exhaust?.dont think they have any back pressure do you?.
this is where the oil restrictor mod comes into it.
after many hours of work,testing and machining by me,this caps the max oil pressure the turbo see’s to approx 40psi.this is more than enough to lubricate it yet doesnt overpower the seals.which means,you dont get any issues with running big bore exhaust.no smoke on idle with oil forcing its way past the seals.minimal risk of leaks (standard vaux drain isnt the best anyway) and oily smells when driven hard.
it WONT help with cracked manifolds (excessively high exhaust gas temps from too much boost) or burned out bearings (severe shaft overspeed down to too much boost).
the other plus,is you get more oil pressure where you need it,in the engine.a turbo oil feed line is essentially a haemorage from the engine.by controlling it,you control your oil pressure better.
theres loads of guff knocking about on various forums about these as pointless mods.they work.FACT!.
there are loads of people now running these with no further issues,some members on here have them aswell,some of whom have had turbo issues which have now gone without changing the turbo.i have cured some super smoky turbos with these without having the turbo rebuilt and there are several track cars running these with no issues.
They will also fit,corsa’s,meriva’s and vectra’s VXR’s too.
Te koop op ebay / regal etc voor ca 25 euro, goedkope maar zeer effectieve en nuttige aanschaf lijkt me.
MONTAGE INSTRUCTIES:
1. locate the banjo bolt on the oil feed line on the top of the turbo.
2. undo the banjo bolt and remove it from the feedline.
one copper washer will come off on the bolt,the other will be under the feed line and must be removed aswell.
3. take the oil restrictor and 2 new copper washers out of the bag.
4. fit one of the washers under the feedline where you removed the old one from and line it up with the oil gallery.
5. fit the oil restrictor into the oil line with the remaining copper washer on the bolt. (there should be a copper washer on either side of the oil line and should be assembled like the example below)
6. tighten the bolt.torque spec for the bolt is 12nm,but a good nip with the torx key until the bolt is tight is usually more than enough.
7. wipe up any oil spillage from around the oil gallery,then disconnect the coil pack plug.
8. crank the engine over for approx 5 seconds to refill the oil line.
9. check around the bolt for any oil leaks,if it has leaked,wipe it up and tighten some more,then try it again.if its ok,re-connect the coil pack.
10. start the engine,and allow the car to idle for a few minutes,again check for leaks around the bolt and retighten if needed.
Natuurlijk werkt een dumpvalve niet op een ongeblazen motor!
Ik kreeg trouwens met die HKS alleen maar storingen, TC lampje ging branden, TC werkt dan niet meer en is een teken dat je motor arm loopt.
Ik heb m een week erop gehad, daarna snel verkocht.
Volgens mij kan je die wel hergebruiken daar het geen rekbouten zijn. Bij montage beetje loctite gebruiken.
origineel gepost door OpelRoos
Om het goed te maken een paar mooie foto’s in pin-up/burlesque stijl
Nice !
